General notes on leather

It is suggested you take your pattern pieces with you to purchase leather for a garment/project. Leather hides vary greatly in usable size and color. It is important to purchase all the hides needed for a project at one time. Lay the pattern pieces on the leather as closely as possible. You do not need to pay attention to fabric grain when using smooth leather. Suede leather has a nap. If you run your hand across the skin, you will either feel resistance (against the nap) or the hairs will lie flat and smooth (with the nap).In this case, it is important to place all the pattern pieces in the same direction. You should not unsew leather seams, because the stitches and needle perforations will remain visible. It is a good idea to make a sample model first out of cotton fabric or another fabric of similar weight. Adjustments can then be made to the pattern pieces prior to cutting the leather. Secure the pattern pieces to the leather with double-sided fabric adhesive strips. Punctures from pins remain visible! Transfer the seam lines to the wrong side of the fabric with a ballpoint pen. There are special interfacings for leather, which can be pressed on with an iron at a moderate heat. For sewing leather, use the proper optional accessories (see optional presser feet). Only iron leather at a medium heat and always use a pressing cloth. The pressing cloth will prevent the iron from leaving marks on the leather. A fabric adhesive can also be useful for temporarily tacking pockets, hems, etc. into position. Make sure the stitch length is set at least than 3 mm when sewing leather. A shorter stitch length will perforate the leather and the seam may tear.